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Encil Enlli: Lle i enaid gael llonydd

Wrth i'r tonnau sibrwd chwedlau hynafol a'r gwyntoedd gario emynau'r creu, daeth ein encil tri diwrnod ar Ynys Enlli yn noddfa i'n heneidiau lle ffynnodd cymdeithas Gristnogol ac adnewyddiad ysbrydol.

Elin Owen, arweinydd prosiect Llwybr Cadfan, a dau gyd-bererin, Mali Brynach ac Andrew Edwards sy'n dweud mwy wrthym am eu profiad bythgofiadwy.


Elin Owen

Prosiect llenyddol yw Llwybr Cadfan sy'n dathlu'r eglwysi a'r cymunedau ar hyd Llwybr Sant Cadfan. Mae'n rhan o'n prosiect Llan - menter saith mlynedd sy'n anelu at:

  • Datblygu gweinidogaeth pererindod ar draws Esgobaeth Bangor.
  • Tyfu cymuned eglwys Gymraeg newydd.
  • Cynhyrchu adnoddau efengylaidd Cymraeg ffres.
  • Lansio mentrau cymdeithasol Gristnogol a fydd yn arloesi presenoldeb Anglicanaidd unigryw a thystio mewn lleoliadau penodol o fewn yr esgobaeth.

Mae Llwybr Cadfan wedi bod yn rhedeg ers mis Mawrth 2022 a daeth i ben ym mis Awst eleni gydag encil tri diwrnod ar Ynys Enlli. Trwy farddoniaeth, cerddoriaeth a digwyddiadau cymunedol, mae Llwybr Cadfan wedi dathlu ein hanes a'n treftadaeth Gristnogol ar hyd y llwybr.

Bardsey Retreat
Elin Owen, Arweinydd y prosiect (Ar y dde)

Yn ystod y daith hon rydym wedi dysgu a dathlu’r dreftadaeth leol. Wedi mwynhau sawl prynhawn hwyliog mewn lleoliadau godidog yng nghwmni’r beirdd preswyl Sîon Aled a Sian Northey,ynghyd â 10 o feirdd gwadd amryddawn sy’n cynnwys Twm Morys, Gwyneth Glyn ac Annes Glyn sydd wedi bod yn gyfranwyr rheolaidd. Mae amryw o actorion a cherddorion enwog a thalentog eraill hefyd wedi ymuno â ni gan ein diddanu wrth i ni ddod i adnabod eglwysi a chymunedau ar lwybr pererindod Cadfan.

Llwyddodd yr encil hwyliog hwn i gwmpasu holl egwyddorion y daith hyd yn hyn, hanes, barddoniaeth, llenyddiaeth, cerddoriaeth a mwy!

Grwp Encil Enlli
Pererinion Ynys Enlli

Croesodd 24 o bererinion y Swnt brynhawn dydd Sadwrn Gŵyl y Banc ddiwedd mis Awst, gyda’r tywydd yn eithaf tymhestlog i groesi’r môr i ynys y saint. Mae bywyd ar Enlli yn dra gwahanol i fywyd arferol prysur dydd i ddydd, mae o wir yn le ‘i enaid gael llonydd’. Heb drydan, wifi na signal ffôn, yn sicr mae modd canfod llonyddwch a thawelwch yno! Wedi cyrraedd ein llety oedd wedi ei leoli mewn amrywiol dai ar hyd a lled yr ynys,a dadbacio daeth pawb ynghyd i gael swper. 

Un o uchafbwyntiau’r encil oedd y bwyd. Meriel ac Angharad oedd yn ein bwydo yn ddyddiol o ginio Sul gyda chig oen Enlli, i frechdanau cranc a bbq anhygoel-heb sôn am y pwdinau anfarwol, i gyd wedi cael eu paratoi yng nghegin y fferm.


Mae o wir yn le ‘i enaid gael llonydd’.


Y noson gyntaf cawsom sgwrs hynod ddiddorol gan seryddwr a Swyddog Awyr Dywyll y Parc Cenedlaethol Dani Robinson oedd yn trafod ‘Statws Awyr Dywyll Enlli a’r Sêr. Sgwrs ddifyr iawn oedd hon, lwyddodd i ddal dychymyg a syfrdanu sawl un â’r ffaith ryfeddol, fod yna bobl yn byw ar y ddaear heddiw sydd erioed wedi gallu gweld y sêr. Gwasanaeth gychwynnodd y dathliadau ar y dydd Sul, yn y capel o dan ofal Sîon Aled cyn symud ymlaen i brynhawn hwyliog gyda’r beirdd preswyl a Twm Morys a Gwyneth Glyn, bu i ambell aelod o’r encil hefyd gyfrannu gan arddangos eu doniau cerddorol a barddonol. Swper wedyn (bendigedig eto!) cyn i Twm a Gwyneth barhau i’n diddanu am weddill y noson.Roedd cyfle hefyd i bawb gymryd rhan mewn gweithdy creu llyfr o ddeunydd naturiol yr ynys yn ystod y penwythnos, yn ogystal â sawl cyfle i ymgymryd â gweithdai ysgrifennu creadigol eto o dan ofal y beirdd preswyl. 

Gyda digon o amser i archwilio'r ynys, gallem arsylwi natur ar ei orau a phrofi ymdeimlad dwfn o ysbrydolrwydd.

Siôn Aled, bardd preswyl
Siôn Aled, bardd preswyl

Croesodd Sant Cadfan y swnt yn y chweched ganrif i Enlli, a theg dweud bod yr ynys yn dra gwahanol erbyn hyn. Er hynny parhau mae’r dynfa yno, parhau mae symlrwydd bywyd yno, a gyda thair pererindod i Enlli yn gyfwerth (yn ôl y sôn) â un i Rufain, parhau i dyrru yno mae pererinion o hyd. 

Yr encil lenyddol ar Enlli: Fy mhrofiad i

Dau a ddaeth gyda ni ar yr encil oedd Mali Brynach ac Andrew Edwards, dyma i chi adroddiad byr ganddynt yn sôn am y profiad hynod o groesi’r swnt am y tro cyntaf.

Twm Morys a Gwyneth Glyn
Twm Morys a Gwyneth Glyn

Mali Brynach

Hwn oedd fy nhro cyntaf ar Enlli, y tro cyntaf o nifer o droeon i ddod dwi’n siŵr – dwi’n benderfynol o ail-ymweld â’r ynys rhywbryd ‘to ar ôl profiad mor hudolus ar yr encil lenyddol ar ddiwedd Awst. Dwi’n gwybod fel ffaith bod sawl un o nghyd-bererinion o’r encil gyda’r un bwriad â mi – derbyniodd trefnydd yr encil, Elin, sawl cais i ail-adrodd yr encil mewn blwyddyn neu ddwy. Doedd y ceisiadau hyn ddim yn fy synnu o gwbl, dwi’n credu ei bod hi’n saff i mi siarad dros bawb pan ddwedaf pa mor werthfawr oedd yr encil. 

Dywedaf ‘gwerthfawr’ oherwydd mae’n anodd dewis yr ansoddair iawn i ddisgrifio’r profiad, ac mi oedd y profiad yn amrywio o berson i berson – mi aeth rai yno gyda’r bwriad o wneud yn fawr o’r amser heb negeseuon ar y ffôn neu e-byst niferus i dynnu sylw o’u syniadau barddoni neu ysgrifennu creadigol. I eraill mi oedd yn gyfle cyffelyb i ddianc o wrthdyniadau’r byd ond heb fwriad mawr ond i ail-gysylltu â phatrymau a rhythmau natur a chael cyfle i adfyfyrio ar fywyd. 


Dwi’n benderfynol o ail-ymweld â’r ynys rhywbryd ‘to ar ôl profiad mor hudolus ar yr encil


Dyna beth oedd mor hyfryd am yr encil, oedd bod modd i bawb addasu’r profiad i siwtio nhw a’r hyn yr oedden nhw isio allan o’r encil – roedd rhyddid i fynychu pob gweithgaredd a gynigir neu dim un ohonynt. Y gweithgareddau yma oedd rhai o’n hoff atgofion o’r encil a deud y gwir oherwydd bod mwy neu lai pawb yn ymgynnull ynghyd ac o ganlyniad mi oedd yna deimlad clos iawn ymysg ni. 

Y noson gyntaf, nos Sadwrn, yn fuan ar ôl swper mi gawsom ni sgwrs gan Dani, arbenigwraig ar awyr dywyll gan bod yr ynys wedi derbyn y statws yma (y cyntaf yn Ewrop) yn gynharach eleni. Yn anffodus roedd cymylau isel y noson honno felly chawsom ni’m gweld y sêr ond fe wnaethom ni ymgynnull yn yr hen ysgol i glywed sgwrs ddiddorol tu hwnt gan Dani a rhyfeddu at y darnau o asteroid y daeth hi mewn ‘da hi. 

Mi oedd nos Lun yn uchafbwynt arall i mi gyda noson o farddoniaeth a cherddoriaeth yn y capel gan Sion Aled, Sian Northey, Gwyneth Glyn a Twm Morys. Dwi’n credu y gadawodd pawb y capel wedi cael eu hysbrydoli neu eu hysgwyd rhyw ffordd gan y creadigrwydd nodedig. Roedd bwyta ein prydau ar y cyd hefyd yn rhoi ymdeimlad braf o gymuned. Mae rhaid i mi sôn am ba mor flasus oedd y bwyd, a pha mor gwrtais a chyfeillgar oedd y plant annwyl fuodd yn ein gweini ni, chwarae teg iddyn nhw! Y noson gyntaf dros swper gwnes i gynllun gyda cwpl o bobl eraill i fynd i nofio ben bore canlynol. 


Mi ges i amser gwych, a dwi’n argymell yn gryf i unrhyw un y caiff gyfle i ymweld ag Ynys Enlli yn y dyfodol.

Wel, rhaid i mi gyfaddef er ei bod hi’n haf y bore Sul hwnnw mi wnes i sticio’n nhroed i mas o oddi tan y cwrlid a difaru’n syth hyd yn oed sôn am fynd i’r môr oherwydd pa mor oer ydoedd. Ar ôl dipyn o siarsio’n hun mi godais i’n y pen draw a heglu hi draw at y groes fawr tu fas i’r hen abaty i gwrdd â nghyfeillion newydd. Mi o’n i’n falch iawn i mi wneud oherwydd pa mor aml fedr rhywun ddweud eu bod nhw wedi nofio efo morloi! 

Es i’r bore canlynol hefyd, a charu bob munud (heblaw am grynu dan oerfel, ond mi oedd e werth e)!

Mali yn nofio yn y môr
Mali yn nofio yn y môr

Mi ges i amser gwych, a dwi’n argymell yn gryf i unrhyw un y caiff gyfle i ymweld ag Ynys Enlli yn y dyfodol (yn enwedig os ailadroddir encil o’r fath)!

Andrew Edwards

Dwi wedi bod isio mynd i Enlli ers 2016 ar ôl clywed gymaint o sôn amdan brydferthwch Llŷn gan gyfaill imi Elidyr, a’i chymharodd i harddwch nefolaidd, gydag Enlli fel y Pyrth Perlog.

Ond doedd hi ddim tan y misoedd cyn y pandemig mawr tyngedfennol hwnnw’n 2020 pan weles i Enlli am y tro cyntaf o safle Uwchmynydd. Hir ymaros fuodd hi imi felly gael cyfle i fynd draw i’r ynys ddiwedd Awst 2023.


Dwi’n teimlo nad oeddwn erioed wedi profi byw mor sylfaenol o ddynol.

Tawelwch llethol oedd fy argraff gyntaf o Enlli yn ogystal â’r cyffro newydd wrth weld morloi. Bron yn syth, mi ddatblygodd cymuned glos ymhlith y rhai oedd yn cymryd rhan yn yr encil. Er na chymerais ran yn yr un gweithdy, mae gynai atgofion melys bythgofiadwy o nofio’n y môr ben bore efo’r morloi, dringo mynydd Enlli (a chael golygfeydd gwefreiddiol), bwyd a chwmni da, ac amser i’w drysori wrth rannu straeon a photel o win gyda’r hwyr.

Wrth fyw bywyd mor iach o syml gyda’n cymuned ni, dwi’n teimlo nad oeddwn erioed wedi profi byw mor sylfaenol o ddynol, ac nad oedd gynai ofn siarad efo pobol yno. 

Mae’r profiad wedi fy newid yn llwyr am byth, yn y modd fy mod yn gwybod mai byw bywyd syml ydy’r delfryd dynol, ac mi fydda i’n manteisio ar y cyfle nesaf y caf i dreulio amser i ffwrdd o brysurdeb bywyd cyfoes, yr holl sŵn a gwrthdyniadau’n cymdeithas ni, sy’n ‘dallu ni o guriad braf y dydd’, chwedl Elidyr.

Encil Enlli
Encil Enlli

Ken Hughes

Un arall sydd wedi cymryd rhan yng ngweithgareddau pereindod LlwybrCadfan ydi Ken Hughes o Bentrefelin, gwrandewch ar ei brofiad o a Sion Aled ar y rhaglen radio Bwrw Golwg ar BBC Radio Cymru yn ddiweddar.

Cymraeg

Bardsey Retreat: a place for the soul to rest

As the waves whispered ancient tales and the winds carried the hymns of creation, our three-day retreat on Bardsey Island became a sanctuary for our souls, where Christian fellowship and spiritual renewal thrived. 

Llwybr Cadfan project lead Elin Owen and two fellow pilgrims, Mali Brynach and Andrew Edwards tell us more about their unforgettable experience.


Elin Owen

Llwybr Cadfan is a literary project that celebrates the churches and communities along Saint Cadfan's Trail. It is part of our Llan project - a seven-year initiative that aims to:

  • Develop pilgrimage ministry across the Diocese of Bangor. 
  • Grow a new Welsh-language church community. 
  • Produce fresh Welsh-language evangelistic resources.
  • Launch four Christian social enterprises that will pioneer a unique Anglican presence and witness across the Diocese. 

Llwybr Cadfan has been running since March 2022 and culminated in August with a three day retreat at Bardsey Island. Through poetry, music and community events, Llwybr Cadfan has celebrated our Christian history and heritage along the route.

Elin, project lead
Elin Owen, Project Lead

During this journey, we have learned about, and celebrated, a huge amount of local heritage and culture. We've enjoyed many joyous afternoons in stunning settings in the company of our poets-in-residence poets Sîon Aled and Sian Northey. We have also been joined by 10 guest poets, including Twm Morys, Gwyneth Glyn, and Annes Glyn, who have been regular contributors to Llwybr Cadfan. Other famous and talented actors and musicians have also joined and entertained us as we've come to know churches and communities along the Cadfan pilgrimage route.

Our Bardsey Island retreat encompassed all the main principles of the project thus far: history, poetry, literature, music, and more!

Retreat workshop
Retreat workshop

24 pilgrims crossed the Bardsey Sound on the Saturday afternoon of the Bank Holiday in late August. The weather proved quite challenging to cross from the mainland to the island of the saints. Life on Bardsey is quite different to a busy normal day to day life. It really is a place 'for souls to have peace'. Without electricity, WIFI or phone signal, you can truly experience the stillness and quiet on the island.


It really is a place 'for souls to have peace'.


After arriving at our accommodation, which was in various houses all over the island, everyone gathered for dinner. One of the highlights of the retreat was the food. Meriel and Angharad fed us daily, from Sunday lunch with Bardsey lamb, to crab sandwiches and an amazing BBQ—not to mention the immense desserts - all prepared in the farm kitchen.

Poetry sessions
Poetry sessions

During the first evening we had a fascinating talk from National Park’s Dark Sky Officer Dani Robinson who discussed the status of Bardsey as a dark skies sanctuary. This entertaining and enlightening conversation amazed us and captured our imaginations. Did you know there are people living on earth today who have never been able to see the stars?

The celebrations started on the Sunday with a service in the chapel led by Sîon Aled before moving on to an afternoon with the resident poets Twm Morys and Gwyneth Glyn. Some retreat pilgrims also contributed and entertained us with their musical and poetic talents. Dinner afterwards was wonderful again and then we settled for an entertainment with Twm and Gwyneth.

We had the opportunity to take part in a book-making workshop using natural materials collected from the island's natural material, and an opportunity to join creative writing workshops with the poets-in-residence. 

With plenty of time to explore the island we could observe nature at its best and experience a deep sense of spirituality.

St Cadfan crossed the Sound in the sixth century to Bardsey, and it is fair to say that the island is now quite different. Yet the attraction to come here continues, and so does the simplicity of life, and with three pilgrimages to Bardsey being equivalent (supposedly) to one to Rome, the pilgrims also continue. 

The literary retreat on Bardsey: My experience

Pilgrims Mali Brynach and Andrew Edwards accompanied us on the retreat. Here's their account of the remarkable experience of crossing the Bardsey Sound for the first time.

Grwp Encil Enlli
Pilgrims on Bardsey Island

Mali Brynach

It was my first time on Bardsey, the first of many times to come I'm sure. I'm determined to re-visit the island sometime after such a magical experience. I know for a fact that other fellow pilgrims have the same intention as me as Elin received several requests to repeat the retreat. 

These requests didn't surprise me at all, I think it's safe for me to speak for everyone when I say how valuable the retreat was. I say valuable because it's hard to choose the right adjective to describe the experience. The experience varied from person to person. Some went there with the intention of making the most of the time without phone messages or emails to distract from their poetry or creative writing ideas. For others it was a similar opportunity to escape the distractions of the world but with no great intention other than reconnect with the patterns and rhythms of nature and to reflect on life. 


I'm determined to re-visit the island after such a magical experience.

That's what was so lovely about the retreat. Everyone could customise the experience to suit themselves. There was freedom to attend all or none of their activities offered. These activities were some of our favourite memories of the retreat. More or less everyone gathered together so there was a very close feeling amongst us. 

After supper on the first night, we were given a talk by Dani, an expert on dark skies. She told us that earlier this year Bardsey Island had been granted International Dark Sky Sanctuary certification by the International Dark Skies Association (IDA) - a first in Europe. 

Unfortunately there were low clouds that night so we didn't see the stars. Instead, we gathered at the old school to hear a fascinating talk from Dani and marvel at the pieces of asteroid she brought along. 

Monday night was another highlight for me with an evening of poetry and music in the chapel with Sîon Aled, Sian Northey, Gwyneth Glyn and Twm Morys. I think everyone left the chapel inspired by the remarkable creativity. 

Eating our meals together also provided a nice sense of community. I have to mention how delicious the food was, and how polite and friendly the dear children who served us, played fair to them! The first night over dinner I made a plan with a couple of other people to go swimming the following morning. Well, I have to admit even though it was summer that Sunday morning I immediately regretted talking about going into the sea because of how cold it was. I was very glad I did because how often can you say that you've swam with seals! I went back the following morning too, and loved every minute (except for shivering under cold, but it was worth it!). 

I had a great time, and I highly recommend to anyone that they have the opportunity to visit Bardsey Island in the future (especially if such a retreat is repeated)!

Pilgrims on Bardsey
Pilgrims on Bardsey Island

Andrew Edwards

I've wanted to visit Bardsey after hearing so much of its beauty from a friend of who compared it to heavenly beauty - with Bardsey as the Gates to Heaven.

It was months later leading up to the pandemic when I saw Bardsey for the first time from Uwchmynydd. I longed to visit and had the opportunity to head over to the island at the end of August 2023.


The experience has changed me completely forever.

My first impression of Bardsey was of overwhelming silence, as well as the excitement of seeing the seals. Almost immediately, a close-knit community developed among those taking part in the retreat. Although I did not take part in all of the workshops, I do have unforgettable and fond memories of swimming in the sea in the early morning with the seals, climbing Bardsey mountain (and the thrilling views), good food and company, and time to treasure while sharing stories and a bottle of wine in the evening.

I feel that I had never experienced living so fundamentally human, and I wasn't afraid to talk to people. The experience has changed me completely forever. I will seize the next opportunity to spend time away from the hustle and bustle of contemporary life, with all the noise and distractions of our society, which 'blinds us from the nice beat of the day'.

Andrew Edwards
Andrew Edwards

Ken Hughes

Another pilgrim who joined us on Bardsey wass Ken Hughes from Pentrefelin. Listen to his experience of on BBC Radio Cymu's Bwrw Golwg.